Tag Archives: 32 ford

I’m Back

Well, it’s been some time since the last posting. Lots going on with the family, but nothing with the cars. But, I’m here to tell you that I have started working on the roadster again. Been going back and forth with the idea of using the van seat or just buying a completed seat from one of the seat manufacturers. I’m really considering the seat manufacturer version.

Along with the seat issue, been checking out swatches of color for the interior.. That’s a lot harder then one would think. What ever you pick, you are going to have to live with for the life of ownership of the car…

I’ll post some photos shortly.

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Well, need to create a body dolly for the 32 roadster

I started planning out the next steps on the roadster, seems that I will need to do them in somewhat of an order.

    Glass in the window eyebrow and install windshield
    Cut out the holes for the shifter
    Cut out the holes for the remote access door for the master cylinder
    Cut out the hole for the steering column
    Mount the steering column
    Rough mount the seat in the body (don’t want to be drilling mounting holes after painting)
    Uninstall items so roadster body can be remove
    Lift body off frame
    Place body on dolly
    Route the external wire harness on exposed frame (engine, alt., fan and headlights)
    Route the brake lines on exposed frame
    Route fuel lines on exposed frame
    Drop body back on
    Cut holes for the fuel line to Tank
    Cut holes for the wire harness
    Rough in dash
    Rough in gauges

This is just a high level checklist, there’s more details, but you get the idea of the next steps.

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Getting ready lift the body on the roadster.

There’s a few other tasks to finish off before I pull the body and start preparing the body for paint. One of the main tasks to finish off would be mounting the gas tank and cutting out the holes for the brake pedal and steering column and then rough mounting the Wanlass windshield to the roadster. All these will require some cutting and I’m just not looking forward to the fiberglass itch.

Once all the above is completed, I plan on building a jig to mount the body on so that I can roll it around. Then the fun starts, I get to start the running the brake/fuel lines and all the wiring. It’s going to be an exciting point in the build and I really enjoy doing that detail level of work. Of course, photos will be taken.. :-)

After the chassis is finished, then I will start the body work.. oh joy, the itch!

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1932 Ford Spark Wires

Here’s a better photo of how the wires are tucked down and close to the engine of my 32 roadster.. This creates a really clean look with the engine.. Remember, I’m putting on the eight stack fuel ingestion system from Inglese, I want that system to be the focal point of the engine.. Not some spark plug wires hanging loosely around the engine.

1932 Ford Roadster spark plug wires
1932 Ford Roadster spark plug wires

You can click on the photo to give you a real zoomed in look at the spark plug wires on my roadster..
Also, the picture gives you a good look at that Jegs mini starter that I installed.. It tucks in there nicely as well. Well worth the extra money..

Next step, fab together something to channel the wires up to the distributor. I think I will be using some plug wire brackets from my 60 Corvette. I just ordered all those repro pieces to see what I would work with. Will take some more photos once I get the pieces installed on the 32 Ford.

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Routing those spark plug wires on the roadster

Routing those spark plug wires is a daunting task. I prefer to keep the top of the engine clean and not show the plug wires at all. So first, I installed wire brackets that belong to my 60 Corvette. I’m pretty sure these little brackets cross over to other cars as well and show up in C2 and C3 Corvettes. So it shouldn’t be a problem from anyone to find them.. They are only $2.75 a piece and you only need four of them.. The nice thing about those little brackets are they pull the wires in nice and tight, keeping them away from the exhaust manifolds.

1932 Ford Plug Wires
1932 Ford Plug Wire Routing

As I work through the next step of bringing the wires up the back side of the roadster engine, I’ll take a few more photos. Looks like I will have to fab some routing channel to bring the wires up to the distributor.

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New additions to my roadster

Well, been working on and off between my 60 Corvette and the Ford Roadster.. The Corvette is getting more attention right now because I’m so close to getting back on the road.. In the past few weeks I have picked up a few additional parts for the roadster, including mini starter, distributor, plug wires and coil.

Jegs had a really good deal on a turnkey bundle package with Pertronix. The bundle package includes: Billet Plug & Play Distributor, Flame Thrower II 45K Volt Coil & 8MM Universal Spark Plug Wire Set for only $264. Since I wanted to keep the chrome and colors to a minimal in the engine compartment, this package fit the bill, with a black cap on the distributor and black plug wires. I think I’ll change out the coil, as it has a chrome base, go with a black base.

As for the mini starter, I picked up one the JEGS Prostarter Mini Starters for $179, perfect fit and looks great.. I think I will mast it off and paint the body of the starter black just so it’s not distracting.

Now the trick is going to be routing the plug wires on the roadster so that don’t heat up nor get caught near the headers. I purchased some wire looms from 68-75 Corvette, going to try to route the wires behind the engine and bring them up by the oil pan. This is the same style as my 60 Corvette. We will see, wire looms are in enroute, should get them by the end of the week..

I’ll take a few photos showing the starter and the routing of the plug wires shortly, so you all can see how it’s looking.

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1932 Ford Real Steel Traditional Roadster

Check out this 1932 Ford Real Steel Traditional Roadster on ebay this week.. Not a bad price for a real steel car…

1932 Ford Real Steel Traditional Roadster
1932 Ford Roadster For Sale

Click Here to check out this car:

This is a real traditional 32 Roadster, all steel, with a 1955 Cadillac engine. The 1955 Cadillac engine is backed by a traditional 3 speed Ford gearbox, which mates to the 1940 Ford rear differential. This engine was a powerful engine, 270hp stock with the stock duel carbs and 9 to 1 compression. This one has 3, 2 barrel Ford/Holley 94 carbs, and a free flowing exhaust, which should put it close to 300 hp. Not bad for 1955!

So, don’t miss your opportunity on this real steel car:

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Installing a seat in a 1932 Ford Roadster (part 1)

Well, just like the gauges, rear lights, etc., the interior is one’s personal preference. I’ve opted to use a middle seat frame from a Dodge Caravan instead of spending hundred of dollars on a special 32 ford seat frame. It may not function as nice as one of those special made 32 frames, but I’m not going to be using this roadster as a daily driver. And I rather spend the money on other things for the car. I’ve seen other roadsters with the Caravan seats and a good interior guy can work magic on those frame. So, it’s up to you as to where you want to spend your money.. The seat that I picked up was from a 2005 Dodge Caravan, it’s roughly 42″ width, so it will fit perfect in there the roadster.. I did make the mistake of buying another seat just before this one, it’s the three seater version, I thought I would cut it done.. But when you are talking about $40 for a seat, just not worth the time or effort to cut up a frame to make it smaller, when you can get another one that will fit fine for $40.

Side note: Seems that 2000-2005 Chrysler and Dodge mini vans all use the same seats, just be sure to get the 40-42″ one and not the 47″ one.

Standard Dodge Caravan Mid seat
Standard Dodge Caravan Mid seat

Need to remove the track assembly before installing
Need to remove the track assembly before installing

Installed seat in 1932 Ford Roadster
1932 Ford Roadster seat install

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Picking the right gauges for your roadster

Picking the gauges for your roadster is a personal preference. Some want the modern high-tech look and others want the old fashion look.. Some people go as far as getting old gauges from the 30-40s and putting the modern gauge technology within them. The end result is a really nice look, but costly.

I’m opting to go the old fashion look and have chosen the All American Nickel from Classic Instruments

All American Nickel Instruments
All American Nickel Instruments

These gauges have a really nice look and feel and will work well for the style of roadster that I’m going for now.. The guys over a Classic Instruments were very helpful in advising exactly what I would need to hook up these gauges to my Painless wire harness. So a Shout Out goes to Classic Instruments for the great customer support! Thanks!

As for the installation of the gauges, I’m going to do something a little different then the rest of 32 fords out there.. don’t want to spill the beans just yet, need to mock it up to see how it’s going to look.. But I think I have a really cool idea that going to make the dash look really great with these gauges, so stay tune to see photos of the mock-up and the install.


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Working out brake issues on a 32 Ford Roadster

Every time I walk by the 32 roadster in my garage, those factory GM calipers just stick out like a sore thumb against all that nice chrome and stainless steel parts.. I know down the road, those calipers will lose their factory coating and begin to rust, leaving a poor presentation of the front and rearend of this roadster.

So I’ve been diggin around to see what I could get to replace those GM calipers without having to redo the brackets, etc. looks like there could be a few direct replacements available out there that will be bolt-on.. I’m tossing around the idea of purchasing a set from Wilwood, here’s the breakdown:

Wilwood Disc Brakes introduces their new forget billet D154 replacement caliper for 1968 – present GM vehicles.
– The calipers are specifically designed to mount in the stock location
– Calipers are available in black or red powder coat
– The caliper comes in a single piston 2.50” diameter
– For two 2-piston configurations is available in, 1.62/1.62” and 1.12/1.12” for vehicles that have been converted to four wheel discs

I figured I would do the black powder coated ones, as the red would just stick out too much.. I’ll let you know how they turn out shortly..

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