Tag Archives: 32 ford roadster engine

1932 Ford Spark Wires

Here’s a better photo of how the wires are tucked down and close to the engine of my 32 roadster.. This creates a really clean look with the engine.. Remember, I’m putting on the eight stack fuel ingestion system from Inglese, I want that system to be the focal point of the engine.. Not some spark plug wires hanging loosely around the engine.

1932 Ford Roadster spark plug wires
1932 Ford Roadster spark plug wires

You can click on the photo to give you a real zoomed in look at the spark plug wires on my roadster..
Also, the picture gives you a good look at that Jegs mini starter that I installed.. It tucks in there nicely as well. Well worth the extra money..

Next step, fab together something to channel the wires up to the distributor. I think I will be using some plug wire brackets from my 60 Corvette. I just ordered all those repro pieces to see what I would work with. Will take some more photos once I get the pieces installed on the 32 Ford.

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Rearend issues

Point blank, I screwed up.. I ordered a 3:70/31 spine rearend from Speedway for the roadster. BTW Speedway, that’s a really ugly color gray that you paint those rearends, maybe you should offer without paint or maybe just in primer. Anyways on with the screw up.. Before I ordered the rearend, I crawled under the car and verified that there was no tapers on the axles, which would indicate a 28 spine.. Well, since the axles were just sticking there in the housing where the third member goes, I didn’t see any taper near the spine.. So, good, it’s a 31 spine.. You already know where this is going..

When the rearend arrived, I had to repaint it, OMG again, it’s a really ugly grey from Speedway.. prepped and spray it with a gun metal gray.. Much better. Cleaned out the rearend housing with mineral spirits, etc.. Pulled the axles out, installed the third member into the housing, then went to install the axles and they wouldn’t fit.. Yep!.. counted teeth, 28 teeth.. The taper was about 10″ away from the teeth, not next to the teeth.. So I couldn’t see the taper when I looked at the axles in the housing.

So, now what!!! Ship back the third member, it’s going to cost me another $70 bucks, plus, another $70 for the next one, plus I already painted the third member.. So I contacted the chassis builder (Ken) and told him “I screwed up”.. Asked if I could just ship the axles back and get 31 spine axles. Ken’s a good guy and didn’t have a problem with me shipping them back.. So a major Thanks to Ken for helping me out!

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Getting all those roadster parts figured out

With the engine in, I’ve been busy trying to match up the crank pulley with a water pump and alternator pulleys. As well as the upper/lower radiator hoses, upper intake water neck and the alternator itself.

After ordering and returning a few different types of pulleys, looks like I’ll be going with a double groove pulley system from a 1955-1972 Corvette. With my short water pump, this set seems to work out well. Now the trick is the alternator. I’ve been researching all over the web for what other 32 Ford builders have used, seems most mount the alternator up on the heads, usually the driver side. But, to me, that just take away from the clean look of the engine compartment. I want my engine clean and not all built up with brackets and parts that will take away from the main focus, the Inglese induction system. So I researched a few other options, like the rear-end mounted alternator, but it just doesn’t seem a good fit for a car that’s going to be driven. The rear-end mounted alternator will not charge until you reach a certain speed, so in town driving could kill your battery.

So I ordered a Powermaster 8-8818 – Powermaster Pro Series Alternator with Mount Kit. This has a really snug fit to the engine, the alternator itself is one of those mini alternators. Bonus, it’s black, so it looks great next to the black engine. The only issue is that I will have to mill out a new part of the bracket, the current bracket supplied with the system does allow the pulley on the alternator to line up. So I’ll mill out a new bracket taking out about .125″ so they line up.

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The engine build – Part 2

32 Roadster: 383 Chevy Engine
32 Roadster: 383 Chevy Engine

During the pass weekend, we assembled the lower block and bolted on the new AFR heads (AFR 195cc SBC Eliminator Street Cylinder Head). Great looking heads, but I could do without the logo on the front and back of the heads.. I would prefer a logo free version! hopefully, the a few mounting brackets will cover them up.. If not, I was thinking of milling off the logo. This engine compartment needs to be clean, not going to deal with this too well. If I knew the logos where that big, I don’t think I would have purchased the heads. I may have stuck with just some GM alum heads. Too many companies are more interested in branding their products then the quality of their products. Don’t get me wrong, AFR makes a great set of heads, that’s why I wanted them.. But milling off the logo is going to set me back a few hundred and the reassembly as well. . .Maybe I should reach out to AFR and see if they offer a logo free version. Let’s see if they even care. More to come on the issue!


My buddy wants to fire the engine with a carb instead of the fuel injection system, just for the 20 minute breakin period.. I’ll agree with him, we don’t need all the headaches of getting the FI system running while we are trying to fire up a fresh build. So I dug out my old 69 z/28 manifold and cleaned it up.. We’ll be using that with a Holley 650 to break-in the engine for the 32 ford.

My Sanderson headers will be arriving Thursday, this week, so we should be able to button up the engine this weekend and drop the engine into the 32 roadster chassis this weekend. Then have to get a few more things to add onto the engine, i.e., water pump, alternator, etc.. then we should be ready to fire this engine up..

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Roadster: The engine build

Well, we started the engine build this past weekend. We ran into some issues with the block, first; it wasn’t cleaned very well.. so we had to spend a lot of extra time cleaning the inside of the block, Second; one of the main cap bolts had a bur on it, so we were not able to fully assemble the block in one day. Third; dealing with those spiral piston locks.. OMG.. took us about 15 minutes just to figure out how they went in..

After bleeding a little from the sharp edge of the locks, got it down to a science, took under 1 minute per spiral piston lock/clip. We kept on thinking, glad we will not have to pull these things out ever.. Well, the “ever” happened, four of the pistons were flipped the wrong way.. Blame it on the heat of the day or the beer.. But we had to remove eight spiral piston locks.. At first, we googled and everyone had major issues with pulling these out. Even someone created a tool to pull them, cost $89.. But we wanted to give it a try, hell, it was too easy.. you just have to get behind the lead edge with a very small screw driver, then push out so you can get a 90 degree scribe in there to get the leading edge all the way out.. once the leading tip is out, use small needle-nose pliers to pull the lock all the way out.. took, maybe 1 minute per lock to get out.. no biggy at all.

As for the piston rings, pretty easy install. First set of rings needed to be at .018 and the middle set of rings needed to be set at .020.. after a few minutes of grinding on each ring, we dialed the rings right in..

So we ordered new main bolts and they should be in tomorrow sometime along with the new spiral clips.

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