Still working on the routing of the plug wires on my 32 Ford.. In the photo below, you can see how I’m bringing them up the back side of the engine. I’m using the plug wire brackets from 58-62 Corvettes, will be tweaking them a little to tuck them in tighter and not expose the wires so much.. But this photo give you a good idea of how I’m routing the wires.. In the previous post I mentioned that I was thinking of creating a channel for the wires on the back side of the engine.. Now, I’m thinking that I may just run them in the brackets and leave it at that. As I finish off the wires and trim them to size, I’ll take a few more photos…
Here’s a better photo of how the wires are tucked down and close to the engine of my 32 roadster.. This creates a really clean look with the engine.. Remember, I’m putting on the eight stack fuel ingestion system from Inglese, I want that system to be the focal point of the engine.. Not some spark plug wires hanging loosely around the engine.
You can click on the photo to give you a real zoomed in look at the spark plug wires on my roadster..
Also, the picture gives you a good look at that Jegs mini starter that I installed.. It tucks in there nicely as well. Well worth the extra money..
Next step, fab together something to channel the wires up to the distributor. I think I will be using some plug wire brackets from my 60 Corvette. I just ordered all those repro pieces to see what I would work with. Will take some more photos once I get the pieces installed on the 32 Ford.
Routing those spark plug wires is a daunting task. I prefer to keep the top of the engine clean and not show the plug wires at all. So first, I installed wire brackets that belong to my 60 Corvette. I’m pretty sure these little brackets cross over to other cars as well and show up in C2 and C3 Corvettes. So it shouldn’t be a problem from anyone to find them.. They are only $2.75 a piece and you only need four of them.. The nice thing about those little brackets are they pull the wires in nice and tight, keeping them away from the exhaust manifolds.
As I work through the next step of bringing the wires up the back side of the roadster engine, I’ll take a few more photos. Looks like I will have to fab some routing channel to bring the wires up to the distributor.
Check out this 1932 Ford Real Steel Traditional Roadster on ebay this week.. Not a bad price for a real steel car…
Click Here to check out this car:
This is a real traditional 32 Roadster, all steel, with a 1955 Cadillac engine. The 1955 Cadillac engine is backed by a traditional 3 speed Ford gearbox, which mates to the 1940 Ford rear differential. This engine was a powerful engine, 270hp stock with the stock duel carbs and 9 to 1 compression. This one has 3, 2 barrel Ford/Holley 94 carbs, and a free flowing exhaust, which should put it close to 300 hp. Not bad for 1955!
So, don’t miss your opportunity on this real steel car:
Seems there’s a variety of tail lights that you can install on a 32 ford, it’s all based on one’s preference. I’ve chosen to do a more common version and picked up a set of the 39 Ford LED Tail lights from So-Cal with the quick flasher/blink. The trick to installing the lights and getting everything level and straight is to take your time. Mock up the placement of the tail lights and license plate, I used paper cutouts with double stick tape.. Start, by running blue tape down the side on the truck to get a straight/level line with the body. Figure out the locations of the lights and license plate, that’s your preference.
Once you have everything level and measurements all the same.. Use an awl or something sharp to mark the mounting points that will need to be drilled. Remove everything and drill out the mark areas. You may want to drill oversize holes just for adjustment reasons. But be sure that the lights and plate will allow oversize holes, you don’t want do an oversize holes and find out that you can now see that hole after installing the lights or plate.
Point blank, I screwed up.. I ordered a 3:70/31 spine rearend from Speedway for the roadster. BTW Speedway, that’s a really ugly color gray that you paint those rearends, maybe you should offer without paint or maybe just in primer. Anyways on with the screw up.. Before I ordered the rearend, I crawled under the car and verified that there was no tapers on the axles, which would indicate a 28 spine.. Well, since the axles were just sticking there in the housing where the third member goes, I didn’t see any taper near the spine.. So, good, it’s a 31 spine.. You already know where this is going..
When the rearend arrived, I had to repaint it, OMG again, it’s a really ugly grey from Speedway.. prepped and spray it with a gun metal gray.. Much better. Cleaned out the rearend housing with mineral spirits, etc.. Pulled the axles out, installed the third member into the housing, then went to install the axles and they wouldn’t fit.. Yep!.. counted teeth, 28 teeth.. The taper was about 10″ away from the teeth, not next to the teeth.. So I couldn’t see the taper when I looked at the axles in the housing.
So, now what!!! Ship back the third member, it’s going to cost me another $70 bucks, plus, another $70 for the next one, plus I already painted the third member.. So I contacted the chassis builder (Ken) and told him “I screwed up”.. Asked if I could just ship the axles back and get 31 spine axles. Ken’s a good guy and didn’t have a problem with me shipping them back.. So a major Thanks to Ken for helping me out!
With the engine in, I’ve been busy trying to match up the crank pulley with a water pump and alternator pulleys. As well as the upper/lower radiator hoses, upper intake water neck and the alternator itself.
After ordering and returning a few different types of pulleys, looks like I’ll be going with a double groove pulley system from a 1955-1972 Corvette. With my short water pump, this set seems to work out well. Now the trick is the alternator. I’ve been researching all over the web for what other 32 Ford builders have used, seems most mount the alternator up on the heads, usually the driver side. But, to me, that just take away from the clean look of the engine compartment. I want my engine clean and not all built up with brackets and parts that will take away from the main focus, the Inglese induction system. So I researched a few other options, like the rear-end mounted alternator, but it just doesn’t seem a good fit for a car that’s going to be driven. The rear-end mounted alternator will not charge until you reach a certain speed, so in town driving could kill your battery.
So I ordered a Powermaster 8-8818 – Powermaster Pro Series Alternator with Mount Kit. This has a really snug fit to the engine, the alternator itself is one of those mini alternators. Bonus, it’s black, so it looks great next to the black engine. The only issue is that I will have to mill out a new part of the bracket, the current bracket supplied with the system does allow the pulley on the alternator to line up. So I’ll mill out a new bracket taking out about .125″ so they line up.
We tested fitted the engine into the roadster and installed the Sanderson headers.. It’s really starting to look like a street rod now. We have an old ’69 Z/28 manifold on the engine for the break-in.. Once that’s over, we will drop in the XFI system. Which will be the icing on the cake.
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Just received the fiberglass eyebrow from Dick Rodwell. Looks like it will work out well. Not looking forward to the glass work to get this installed. I guess I should have done my homework on the body and windshield. I know this body would work well for a Duvall windshield just like the one in this photo.. Since the top of the roadster is flat without the eyebrow, the Duvall windshield would work out great. But I really wanted to go with the 32 Ford Rodwell windshield, so it’s going to be fun. Going to have to grind down the fiberglass in that area and glass in this new piece. See the photos below showing the fiberglass eyebrow for the 32 ford.
While I was working on getting the OTB 682-J headlight housing test fitted, I decided to test fit the 32 shell, grille insert and radiator. Well, that didn’t go as well as the headlight housing. The 32 shell and grille insert are from Brookville Roadster and the radiator is from a radiator shop out of GA. The radiator was built great, great welds, etc. but just too big, the top tank rubbed the inside of the Brookville shell, see attached photo. I did some research on the web, asked some questions on some forums and most of the guys told me to pick up a Walker radiator. I really didn’t want to spend the money on a Walker Radiator for the roadster, but I really didn’t fell like modding up the aluminum radiator to make it fit.. So I returned the radiator and order a Walker. The walker fit right in, see the photos below: