Now that it’s starting to cool off a little and the grass isn’t growing a few inches everyday. I can start playing around with my 32 roadster again. The fiberglass guy is coming out in a week to give me an estimate on installing the eyebrow for the windshield. Glad I got someone else to do the glass work, I just hate the itch. A few little things that I’ve been doing in the evening is working on Eco Air Meters. I purchased a few of them, will be restoring them, keeping the best one and selling the rest of them. Check it out, I tossed out a site to document the restoration work on these tireflators ECO TireFlators Maybe one of you guys want to buy one off me.. LOL
Anyways, the 32 Roadster will get my attention now and I’ll start posting new updates on a regular basis.. Thanks for hanging around and asking questions!
I started planning out the next steps on the roadster, seems that I will need to do them in somewhat of an order.
Glass in the window eyebrow and install windshield
Cut out the holes for the shifter
Cut out the holes for the remote access door for the master cylinder
Cut out the hole for the steering column
Mount the steering column
Rough mount the seat in the body (don’t want to be drilling mounting holes after painting)
Uninstall items so roadster body can be remove
Lift body off frame
Place body on dolly
Route the external wire harness on exposed frame (engine, alt., fan and headlights)
Route the brake lines on exposed frame
Route fuel lines on exposed frame
Drop body back on
Cut holes for the fuel line to Tank
Cut holes for the wire harness
Rough in dash
Rough in gauges
This is just a high level checklist, there’s more details, but you get the idea of the next steps.
Here’s a better photo of how the wires are tucked down and close to the engine of my 32 roadster.. This creates a really clean look with the engine.. Remember, I’m putting on the eight stack fuel ingestion system from Inglese, I want that system to be the focal point of the engine.. Not some spark plug wires hanging loosely around the engine.
You can click on the photo to give you a real zoomed in look at the spark plug wires on my roadster..
Also, the picture gives you a good look at that Jegs mini starter that I installed.. It tucks in there nicely as well. Well worth the extra money..
Next step, fab together something to channel the wires up to the distributor. I think I will be using some plug wire brackets from my 60 Corvette. I just ordered all those repro pieces to see what I would work with. Will take some more photos once I get the pieces installed on the 32 Ford.
Well, been working on and off between my 60 Corvette and the Ford Roadster.. The Corvette is getting more attention right now because I’m so close to getting back on the road.. In the past few weeks I have picked up a few additional parts for the roadster, including mini starter, distributor, plug wires and coil.
Jegs had a really good deal on a turnkey bundle package with Pertronix. The bundle package includes: Billet Plug & Play Distributor, Flame Thrower II 45K Volt Coil & 8MM Universal Spark Plug Wire Set for only $264. Since I wanted to keep the chrome and colors to a minimal in the engine compartment, this package fit the bill, with a black cap on the distributor and black plug wires. I think I’ll change out the coil, as it has a chrome base, go with a black base.
As for the mini starter, I picked up one the JEGS Prostarter Mini Starters for $179, perfect fit and looks great.. I think I will mast it off and paint the body of the starter black just so it’s not distracting.
Now the trick is going to be routing the plug wires on the roadster so that don’t heat up nor get caught near the headers. I purchased some wire looms from 68-75 Corvette, going to try to route the wires behind the engine and bring them up by the oil pan. This is the same style as my 60 Corvette. We will see, wire looms are in enroute, should get them by the end of the week..
I’ll take a few photos showing the starter and the routing of the plug wires shortly, so you all can see how it’s looking.
Check out this 1932 Ford Real Steel Traditional Roadster on ebay this week.. Not a bad price for a real steel car…
Click Here to check out this car:
This is a real traditional 32 Roadster, all steel, with a 1955 Cadillac engine. The 1955 Cadillac engine is backed by a traditional 3 speed Ford gearbox, which mates to the 1940 Ford rear differential. This engine was a powerful engine, 270hp stock with the stock duel carbs and 9 to 1 compression. This one has 3, 2 barrel Ford/Holley 94 carbs, and a free flowing exhaust, which should put it close to 300 hp. Not bad for 1955!
So, don’t miss your opportunity on this real steel car:
Well, just like the gauges, rear lights, etc., the interior is one’s personal preference. I’ve opted to use a middle seat frame from a Dodge Caravan instead of spending hundred of dollars on a special 32 ford seat frame. It may not function as nice as one of those special made 32 frames, but I’m not going to be using this roadster as a daily driver. And I rather spend the money on other things for the car. I’ve seen other roadsters with the Caravan seats and a good interior guy can work magic on those frame. So, it’s up to you as to where you want to spend your money.. The seat that I picked up was from a 2005 Dodge Caravan, it’s roughly 42″ width, so it will fit perfect in there the roadster.. I did make the mistake of buying another seat just before this one, it’s the three seater version, I thought I would cut it done.. But when you are talking about $40 for a seat, just not worth the time or effort to cut up a frame to make it smaller, when you can get another one that will fit fine for $40.
Side note: Seems that 2000-2005 Chrysler and Dodge mini vans all use the same seats, just be sure to get the 40-42″ one and not the 47″ one.
Picking the gauges for your roadster is a personal preference. Some want the modern high-tech look and others want the old fashion look.. Some people go as far as getting old gauges from the 30-40s and putting the modern gauge technology within them. The end result is a really nice look, but costly.
I’m opting to go the old fashion look and have chosen the All American Nickel from Classic Instruments
These gauges have a really nice look and feel and will work well for the style of roadster that I’m going for now.. The guys over a Classic Instruments were very helpful in advising exactly what I would need to hook up these gauges to my Painless wire harness. So a Shout Out goes to Classic Instruments for the great customer support! Thanks!
As for the installation of the gauges, I’m going to do something a little different then the rest of 32 fords out there.. don’t want to spill the beans just yet, need to mock it up to see how it’s going to look.. But I think I have a really cool idea that going to make the dash look really great with these gauges, so stay tune to see photos of the mock-up and the install.
Thanks to Ken over at Hardcore Classic, I got the axles back and installed that last week, then remounted the rear tires. The 31 spline axles slipped right in without much effort. Love it when something works out correctly.
So it’s starting to look like a Ford roadster again. I’m working on getting the rear tail lights and license plate level and installed.. I also picked up an original 1932 Florida License plate to put on the car, just to keep the vintage look going throughout the roadster..
As stated in the previous post 32 Ford Roadster: Getting all those roadster parts figured out I went with a Powermaster 8-8818 – Powermaster Pro Series Alternator with Mount Kit. After additional test fitting, not only will I need to mill a bracket, I’m going to have to grind off one of the alternator mounting points, at least it’s the one that’s not used. LOL.. Grinding off that mounting point will allow more adjustment next to the 32 ford frame rail.
Point blank, I screwed up.. I ordered a 3:70/31 spine rearend from Speedway for the roadster. BTW Speedway, that’s a really ugly color gray that you paint those rearends, maybe you should offer without paint or maybe just in primer. Anyways on with the screw up.. Before I ordered the rearend, I crawled under the car and verified that there was no tapers on the axles, which would indicate a 28 spine.. Well, since the axles were just sticking there in the housing where the third member goes, I didn’t see any taper near the spine.. So, good, it’s a 31 spine.. You already know where this is going..
When the rearend arrived, I had to repaint it, OMG again, it’s a really ugly grey from Speedway.. prepped and spray it with a gun metal gray.. Much better. Cleaned out the rearend housing with mineral spirits, etc.. Pulled the axles out, installed the third member into the housing, then went to install the axles and they wouldn’t fit.. Yep!.. counted teeth, 28 teeth.. The taper was about 10″ away from the teeth, not next to the teeth.. So I couldn’t see the taper when I looked at the axles in the housing.
So, now what!!! Ship back the third member, it’s going to cost me another $70 bucks, plus, another $70 for the next one, plus I already painted the third member.. So I contacted the chassis builder (Ken) and told him “I screwed up”.. Asked if I could just ship the axles back and get 31 spine axles. Ken’s a good guy and didn’t have a problem with me shipping them back.. So a major Thanks to Ken for helping me out!